Cheyenne Jackson & Anthony Rapp Set to Star in High School Drama Club Comedy Opening Night

first_img Star Files Cheyenne Jackson and Anthony Rapp in a movie about the offstage antics of a high school drama club?! Consider us psyched! According to, the Broadway favorites are lined up to star in the upcoming comedy Opening Night. Directed by Jack Henry Robbins, the film is set during an evening performance of a high school production of William Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Jackson recently appeared in HBO’s smash Liberace biopic Behind The Candelabra and on Broadway in the porn comedy The Performers. His other Broadway credits include Aida, Thoroughly Modern Millie, All Shook Up, On the Twentieth Century, Xanadu and Finian’s Rainbow. He will also appear in the upcoming Six Dance Lessons In Six Weeks, Lucky Stiff, Beautiful Now and the Neil LaBute series Full Circle. Written by Ryan Dixon, Nena Girsch and Robbins, the story of Opening Night follows the onstage disasters and offstage drama of a group of students, their teacher and a visiting B-list TV star on the big night. In addition to Jackson and Rapp, Opening Night will also star Mitchell Jarvis, Camille Cregan and Jessica Lauren Richards. View Commentscenter_img Rapp will be soon be seen on Broadway in the new musical If/Then, starring his Rent co-star, Tony winner Idina Menzel. His other Broadway credits include Six Degrees of Separation and You’re a Good Man, Charlie Brown. Rapp’s film credits include Twister, Road Trip, A Beautiful Mind and Rent. Anthony Rapp Cheyenne Jacksonlast_img read more

Dream a Dream of Cookies with Sesame Street’s Side-Splitting Spoof of Les Miz

first_imgJoin Cookie Monster as he asks the age-old question, “Who me am?” in this epic spoof of the “feel good and not so good” movie of the year, Les Mousserables. From an over-the-top Fantine to Aaron Tveit’s memorable wig, Sesame Street nails all of the mixed emotions everyone has watching the film in this hilarious Les Miz parody. If you’re hungry for cookies (and who isn’t?) and love movie musicals (who doesn’t?), click on for the best laugh we’ve had all week. Cowabunga! View Commentslast_img read more

Garrison Headquarters

first_imgMission – U.S. Army Garrison — Fort Campbell sets the standard for integrating and delivering installation services and base support to ensure readiness, empower resiliency, and enable our Soldiers, Families, civilians, retirees and community partners to remain … unmatched!Vision – Best Soldier and Family Experience39 Normandy Blvd.270-798-9815GarrisonThe Fort Campbell Garrison serves as the host command for all units on Fort Campbell as part of the Installation Management Command’s Atlantic Region.GARRISON DIRECTORATESDirectorate of Public Works (DPW)Directorate of Emergency Services (DES)Directorate of Plans, Training, Mobilization and Security (DPTMS)Directorate of Family and Morale, Welfare and Recreation (DFMWR)Directorate of Human Resources (DHR) — Retirement/Transition ServicesPublic Affairs Office (PAO)Garrison Resource Management Office (GRMO)Installation Safety Office (ISO)Internal Review and Audit Compliance (IRAC)Plans, Analysis and Integration Office (PAIO)Equal Employment Opportunity (EEO)Mission Installation Contracting Command (MICC)last_img read more

Get your Ride On in Paris and France with new Zwift maps that are…

first_imgIf you’re looking for something a little flatter, you can run some laps on the Champs-Élysées. Ride by the Eiffel Tower, Place de la Condorde, the Grand Palais, and of course the Arc de Triomphe. Just two routes are available here, but if you’ve ever wanted to ride the finishing sprint at the TdF, here’s your (virtual) chance.Routes on the Paris MapChamps-Elysees (6.6km, 39m): the most famous finishing sprint in cycling.Lutece Express (6.6km, 39m): rewind history as you travel the roads of Paris.Both maps are currently available to ride, and they’ll continue to be available all week. After that, they’ll be shuffled into the regular rotation on the guest world Recently, Zwift held the first virtual Tour de France and l’Etape du Tour de France. Maybe you even watched some of the virtual racing or took part in the group rides. But I’m guessing I speak for many Zwift riders when I say that what I was really excited about, was the addition of new maps.While the Virtual TdF and l’Etape du Tdf started on the existing world of Watopia, eventually the included the new maps of France and Paris. Until now, those worlds were limited to the race and the l’Etape, but now they’re finally open to all users.The France map centers around a town that was supposedly inspired by La Rochelle in the southwest of France. It includes a number of iconic landmarks like Mont Saint-Michel, fields of sunflowers, and the Carnac Stones.This map is also home to the Zwift-ified version of the legendary Mont Ventoux. Called Mont Ven-Top here, the segment is 19km long with 1,480m of elevation making it the longest climb in Zwift. As one of seven different route options for the map, you can start right at the base of Mont Ven-Top, for the 12.9mi route with 5049ft of climbing.Routes on the France MapCasse-Pattes (22.9km, 155m): roll through the flatlands before ascending the switchbacks up to the hilly KOM. After a fast and furious descent, hit the Marina for a mad-dash finish.Douce France (24km, 133m): roll past stunning chalets, seasides, and sunflowers. The sights and sounds of France are all around you. It’s a sweet route, but there is some sting in it too.La Reine (event-only, 22.8km, 1,181m): enjoy the river road, Balloon Field, and Petit KOM before climbing Mont Ven-Top up to Chalet Reynard.Petit Boucle (60.8km, 483m): This little loop takes in all the roads of the valley in both directions.R.G.V. (24km, 133m): a high-speed sprinter’s course that traverses the flatter roads of the French countryside.Roule Ma Poule (22.9km, 155m): get ready to roll on this undulating course. Take the direct route up to the hilly KOM, descend the switchbacks, and then traverse the flatter countryside.Tire-Bouchon (60.8km, 483m): this route heads straight up to the hilly KOM before corkscrewing its way around the valley. After a lap of this, you might need a glass of wine…or two.Ven-Top (20.8km, 1,539m): the shortest route to the legendary summitlast_img read more

Why bicycle storage hooks are still the best way to store a bike (especially…

first_imgIf you follow the rule of n+1, where ‘n’ is the amount of bikes you currently own, and you keep adding to that number – eventually you’re going to need more bike storage. I crossed that bridge a long time ago. Even before my days at Bikerumor, I could have been considered a bicycle hoarder collector, and it’s only gotten worse.Recently after moving, I found myself in need of a complete redesign for my storage of the fleet. With a new space to fill out, I eagerly researched a number of different bicycle storage products. In spite of numerous options out there, I kept coming back to the humble bicycle storage hook. The simplest solution is usually the best, right?I’ve used various hooks for years, usually whatever version you could find at the local home center. This time though, I wanted to check out the hooks from Park Tool. Are they noticeably different than those that have dutifully supported my bikes for the past decade? Before I knew it, a box of hooks was on its way from Park Tool to find out.Why Hooks?In terms of storage capacity, simplicity, and cost, the bicycle storage hook simply cannot be beat. If you have a ceiling with sufficient height with a floor above it, you likely already have a built-in mounting system. Most basement ceilings will have floor joists that are spaced at 16″ on center. That’s almost the perfect width to space out a row of bicycle storage hooks. Simply drill a pilot hole in the center of the joist, thread in the hook, and voila, you have bicycle storage. If you use this method, there’s nothing else to buy and no need to build anything. It doesn’t matter if the ceiling is finished or completely exposed – just make sure you’re not drilling into any electrical or plumbing lines, HVAC systems, etc.I’ve always hung my bikes in an alternating fashion with bar up/bar down. This allows you to cram a bunch of bikes into a smaller space while still allowing your fairly easy access to each individual bike.Shown above: three bikes with handlebar widths of 800mm (including grips). The 16″ on center spacing of the hooks still works well in this scenario.Even with the wide handlebars of modern mountain bikes, the 16″ spacing works quite well. Again, in terms of efficiency, it’s hard to find a way to store more bikes as effectively and efficiently as this. I do have a hanging rack that fits more bikes into a smaller footprint, but the spacing is too close to allow easy use with mountain bikes. The 12″ spacing is just wide enough to use with many dropbar bikes, but even for wider bars on gravel bikes it can be a challenge to wiggle the bikes in and out.If you’re limited on ceiling height, don’t forget to think about the wheelbase measurement of various bikes. Some are quite a bit longer than others and require more height to properly hang.Is it OK to Hang Bikes by the Wheels? Upside Down?This is a common question, likely because there are a lot of anecdotes floating around about someone who hung their bike upside down and “now the brakes don’t work.” I’ve hung every type of bike in almost every direction for years, and chances are very good that if you look in the back of your local bike shop, you’ll find the same thing.But to be completely sure, I reached out to a few brake and suspension companies to ask their opinion on the matter – namely, SRAM, Shimano, and Hayes/Manitou. The consensus seems to be that it’s completely OK to hang bikes with hydraulic disc brakes or suspension. Both Shimano and Hayes said that it’s fine to hang them in either direction, but is probably best to hang them with the brakes pointed up just in case there’s any air in the master cylinder.Shimano MTB Product Manager, Nick Murdick went on to say, “Like other open system hydraulic brakes, Shimano brakes all feature a reservoir of extra fluid above the master cylinder piston.  We take things a step further by using the brake’s architecture to guide air bubbles to the top of this reservoir where they won’t affect brake performance.  This also makes the brakes easier to bleed when the time comes.It is quite normal to find a small bubble in the top of the reservoir and it’s generally no cause for concern.  If you hang the bike, it’s possible for the bubble to move into the rest of the brake system.  However, the bubble will generally move right back to the top of the reservoir when the bike is taken down for a ride.  Pulling the lever a few times can help get it back where it belongs, essentially self-bleeding the brakes.  If you do that step with a bleed funnel filled with fluid installed, the bubble can even be eliminated completely.The one thing to avoid would be pulling the brake lever while the bike is hanging.  That can force any bubble into the brake line, making it harder to get it back into the reservoir.”It was a similar story from Hayes/Manitou, with their engineers stating, “there isn’t necessarily a right or wrong way of hanging a bike, at least not from the brake or suspension side of things. For brakes it shouldn’t matter since there should be no air in the system.  The rider would notice air in the pressure path so if there is any air present it would be in the reservoir.  In that case anywhere between bike horizontal (like it would be on the ground) and front wheel up would allow the air to remain in the reservoir. So if you are due for a bleed, avoid hanging it from the rear wheel.As for suspension, some of our engineers hang their bikes so the bushings are at the bottom end so the bath oil can get down to the seals. But honestly, without any pressure differential the clearance between the leg and bushing is tight enough that the oil won’t break surface tension and slide down. Same goes for the damper, air shouldn’t migrate past the check valve unless there is sufficient pressure to push it through. If in doubt, the compression adjuster can be set to max before hanging the bike to eliminate the leak path for the air. In the case that air does get past the check valve, a few quick cycles of the fork should take care of bleeding those air bubbles out from under the damper.”SRAM’s response gave the all clear for either direction, making it an easy decision. Based on all three responses though, it seems like bar up is probably the safest bet for bikes with hydraulic disc brakes, but as long as they’re in good working order, you probably won’t have an issue either way.But What about Carbon Rims?This one is a little trickier since there are carbon wheels out there that are likely too fragile to hang from a hook. These seem to be more rare these days, but there were a few wheels that used essentially a carbon ‘fairing’ on top of a standard box section rim to create an aero wheel. I can’t remember off the top of my head, but I vaguely remember one such wheel from my bike shop days that even had a warning sticker on it not to hang it by the rim. But these rims typically feel fragile, and you could physically squeeze the carbon and see it flex. If your wheel feels stronger than that, it’s probably OK – but better to be safe than sorry and consult the manufacturer to be sure.I’ve had no problems hanging many different carbon wheels over the years – the one thing I would say, is to be mindful of the graphics on the rims and of the valves themselves. It seems universally constant that if you pick up a bike to hang it, the hook will either land directly on the valve stem or on a graphic. Either can be damaged by a hook, so it’s best to find a spot on the rim without either.What Makes the Park Tool Hooks Different?Tested: Park Tool 471XX and 471 storage hooks.So hooks are one of the least expensive, most efficient, and easiest ways to store you bike. But why would you want to go with the hooks from Park Tool over those from Home Depot? For starters, Park has a number of different hooks, specifically designed for bikes in different applications.Park offers two different hook thread options with three different sized hooks for each thread. If you’re not planning on threading the hooks into wood, Park offers hooks with a machine thread so you could attach them to metal plate, C-Channel, or other flat objects. To differentiate the two, the machine thread hooks have a black vinyl coating. Note that only the black hook shown directly above is a Park Tool hook, the other black hooks pictured throughout the story are not from Park Tool. The same three hook sizes are also offered with a wood thread, so they can be installed directly into wood once a pilot hole has been drilled. Note that the pilot hole size varies by the hook – the smallest 451 hook recommends using a 1/4″ or 6mm drill bit for the pilot hole. Both the 471 and 471XX recommend using a slightly larger 11/32″ bit due to the larger size of the hook.That brings us to the three sizes – the 450/451 (machine thread/wood thread), 470/471, and 470XX/471XX. At the smallest end, the 55mm wide 450/451 is sort of your standard, old school bike hook. If your collection includes nothing but skinny tires, this one should be sufficient. But as soon as you start tracking into modern mountain bike territory, the 75mm wide 470/471 is a better option. It will still work for any road bike, but the wider hook will work with most mountain bikes including many plus bikes. Finally, the 470XX/471XX is the heavyweight of the group with a 125mm wide hook that’s big enough for most fat bikes.I have a separate rack that I use for bikes with dropbars since the spacing is too narrow for mountain bikes, so I opted for the 471 and 471XX. The 471 is big enough to work with any mountain bike or plus bike I currently have, and the 471XX works with all of my fat bikes. It’s also perfectly acceptable to use a larger hook for smaller wheels and tires, though the bigger hooks are more expensive. Honestly, unless I only planned on hanging road bikes, I would probably skip the 451 in favor of the 471 since it’s more versatile and almost the same price.Park Tool Hooks have a larger opening than most hooks from big box stores for easier entry and exit.One of the most critical measurements and one of the biggest differences between the Park Hooks and generic hooks, isn’t the width. Instead, it’s the distance from the opening at the tip of the hook to the shoulder (represented above by the blue line). Taller tires with larger tread blocks and bigger volume require a bigger gap here to easily guide the wheel into the hook. Often if this gap is too small, you’ll have to tilt the wheel to guide the rim first into the hook. Depending on the tire and rim combination and whether you’re hanging it by the front or rear wheel, this can become fairly difficult – particularly on a high ceiling.In the time that I’ve been using the Park hooks, they have proven quite a bit easier to get certain bikes with chunky tires and rims in and out of the hooks. The larger gaps from the tip to the shoulder allow you to effortlessly guide the wheel in from the side without having to tilt it at all in most cases.My only complaint with the Park Tool hooks? The tags left a lot a sticky residue on the hooks, which required a lot of elbow grease to remove.Also, most hooks that you’ll find from the hardware store that are big enough to fit a fat bike wheel are likely meant for ladders or other flat items. That means the hooks usually have a flat bottom.This works, but the vinyl coating will quickly wear through which risks damage to your rims.Since the Park 470/471XX is curved on the bottom, there’s a better chance of having more surface area between the vinyl coating and the rim. I’ll have to wait and see how they hold up in the long term, but theoretically, it should be better than the ladder hooks I’ve used in the past.PricingFrom L to R: 27.5 x 4.0″, 26 x 4.2″, and 26 x 4.8″The Park Tool hooks are a good bit more expensive than something you’ll find at a big box store, but in the end I think they’re worth it. Compared to other bicycle-specific storage, you could even say these hooks are fairly cheap at $5.45/$5.95/$8.95 a piece (451/471/471XX). But more importantly, they make it easier to load or unload the bikes, and work better with bigger rims and tires. Not to mention the row of Park Tool Blue looks pretty good against the ceiling.parktool.comlast_img read more

SRAM Force AXS Wide – Actual weights & first ride review

first_imgWhy would you want to put the other chainring combos on the wider crank spindle? To add tire clearance, up to 700×45 or 650B x 2.1″. Or to add taller gearing to your bike that has wider tires.What about the Force wide range cassette?What you do on the front of the bike has no impact on the rear. The new 10-36 wide range cassette will work with any of the front chainring combos and spindle widths. It mounts to their XDR freehub body, just like all the rest of their 12 speed cassettes.And the rear derailleur?You will, however, need the new 36T Max AXS rear derailleur to run the new cassette. It’s B-knuckle is longer and lower, which positions the upper pulley wheel so that it can clear the 36T cog.Fortunately, it also works with the 10-33 and 10-28 12-speed cassettes, too. So, like the front, you can mix and match, so long as you’re ensuring the max tooth capacity printed on the derailleur matches the max tooth size on your cassette.They’ll still offer the 33T Max version of the derailleur for pure road bikes, which works with their smallest 10-26 12-speed cassette.So, basically, it’s best to think of this new “Wide” group as two separate systems…one for the front, and one for the rear.SRAM Force AXS “Wide” actual weightsActual weights for the new SRAM Force AXS Wide components are:Crankset with 43/30 chainrings: 418g + 278g = 696gWide front derailleur: 156gChain (full length w/ quick link): 259gRear derailleur: 302g10-36 Cassette: 302gBattery: 24g The new SRAM Force AXS “Wide” group does a lot. It offers a super-compact 43/30 chainring combo for hilly terrain or loaded bikepacking adventure bikes. It adds tire clearance across all of their chainring combos, albeit by swapping in one of their other 12-speed chainring pairs after you buy their new 43/30 crankset. It gives you a wider range cassette option in the back, too.And it does all this with a modular nature that helps it blend into an existing setup or let you build a new bike exactly the way you want it.For the full technical details, pricing and a visual comparison of the improved tire clearance between all three generations of eTap/AXS front derailleurs, check out the launch post. Here, we’ll cover actual weights, install notes and first ride impressions…Force AXS Wide video overviewThat’s the overview, keep reading for actual weights. One note: This video was shot before we had clarification from SRAM on the compatibility matrix of this new “Wide” front derailleur and their complete chainring lineup. So let’s clear that up first.Which SRAM 12-speed chainrings work with Force Wide?Basically they’re ALL cross compatible, here’s how it works:The new “Wide” crankset uses a 5mm wider spindle, adding 2.5mm width per side.All of SRAM’s 12-speed chainrings sets will mount to that wider spindle.They will have a 2.5mm wider chainline once mounted to the wider spindle.The Force Wide front derailleur sits 2.5mm farther out from the seat tube.If you want to run any of SRAM’s 12-speed chainrings on the wider spindle, you need to use the Wide front derailleur.So, yes, you can put the 50/37, 48/35, and 46,33 chainring combos on it, but you’ll need to get the 107bcd spider with them because the 43/30 compact chainring combo that comes on the wider spindle uses a smaller 94bcd spider.The wider spindle comes with the new 43/30 chainring combo installed, it’s not sold separately yet. HRD eTap AXS levers with brake calipers: 406g + 422g =828g160mm Centerline XR Centerlock Rotor: 131gPFBB30 DUB bottom bracket w/ Wide spacers: 89gNotes: Subtract a few grams for the brake spacers, which were impossible to remove until we connected the hose to the lever and opened the system. Derailleurs were weighed without batteries, so you’ll need to double the battery weight. We trimmed a few inches off each of the brake hoses to fit a Niner RLT 9 RDO frame, size 58, and removed a two links from the chain.Complete weight for the group with all parts adds up to 2,942g. This is only 16g less than the standard Force AXS group Zach tested, albeit with 46/33 cranks and a different BB and rotor setup.SRAM Force AXS Wide install notesInstallation is straightforward, with two things worth calling out if you’ve never installed a SRAM AXS drivetrain. First, you’ll need to line up the front derailleur with the large chainring using the lines and indents on the cage. It’s easy, but important. SRAM has a complete PDF installation guide available for download, too.Second, you’ll need to choose the wedge that best fits between your frame and the front derailleur, then bolt it onto the inside of the derailleur.Because the motor is pushing against its mount on the clamp or braze-on, as opposed to you pulling cable, and because it’s powerful, the wedge gives it piece of support so it doesn’t budge. The result is quick, precise, and strong outboard shifts.Because you’re probably wondering what’s up with that front derailleur clamp, here’s the deal: Parlee makes amazing carbon fiber FD clamps. But because they’re Parlee, and because they’re carbon, they’re precision. Which means layers of paint make a tube too fat. So, with Niner’s in the loop on this, I sanded down the frame to make the clamp fit. If you’re not willing to do this, use a standard hinged clamp as they’re more forgiving. Just uglier. And heavier.Out back, it’s standard installation procedure. Bolt the parts on, then use the buttons on the shift paddles to fine tune the derailleur’s position.It comes with a plastic guide to help you set the B-screw’s tension to position the upper pulley in the right place for the best shifting.SRAM Force “Wide” ride reviewcenter_img SRAM’s electronic front shifting has always been good. Strong, powerful, and quick. As you’d expect from a top level group. This Wide version is no different. Toward the end of the video, you’ll see me shifting it back and forth very quickly with no chain loss or hesitation.Same for the rear, and it keeps SRAM’s forceful (no pun intended) chunk sound when shifting under pressure, just without the mechanical click at the lever. The Orbit hydraulic “clutch” chain management system works great, you can see it in action in this post.The 2.5mm wider chainline doesn’t seem to affect shifting performance at the tall end of the cassette. It also doesn’t seem to increase noise or perceptible friction.The levers carry over and keep the deeper nubs on the shift paddles. They’re detectable even with full finger gloves, and provide a nice tactile feel. Compared to SRAM’s mechanical shifters, the tops of these paddles sit just a hair lower. Or, at least, it feels like there’s more of a gap between the bottom of the hood body and the top of the paddle.This adds finger clearance when braking, which means it’s easier to keep my pinky finger wrapped around the bar on hairy descents. I can’t do that so well with their mechanical shifters.If you’re already a fan of SRAM’s wireless shifting, you’ll like this, too. I couldn’t really feel any downside to the wider Q-Factor, but I’m also a larger rider (6’2″ with 13US feet). And I’m frequently bouncing between road, gravel and MTB, so I’m quite tolerant of differences.I like that it’s a mostly modular system, so you can build the exact bike you need. And I like the left-right paddle shifting, it’s extremely intuitive and hard to forget when going back to other bikes. With the key differences here merely being more options and wider tire clearance, as opposed to performance updates, it’s an overall win and worth a test ride if you’re in the market for such things.For the full technical story on this new group, with a visual comparison of tire clearance and shape changes for every generation of eTap/AXS front derailleurs, check out this post.SRAM.comlast_img read more

SwitchLever makes thru axles pretty without giving up the lever

first_imgThe SwitchLever is a fairly standard thru axle option with one nifty trick up its sleeve: A disappearing lever. The result is that your bike can have that clean look of tooled thru axles, but without having to use a floppy mini-tool to change a flat on the side of the road. The included lever detaches, leaving a smooth dropout area, then snaps in when it’s time to install or remove your wheel. Thanks to a variety of thread pitches and lengths, they’re available to replace virtually axles you may have. Options include:Front/Rear 12mm Thru AxlesLengths from 100mm to 230mmThread pitches: M12*1.0/1.5/1.75For axle standards of 100, 142, 148, 157 and 197 mmX-12 optionFront 15mm Thru AxlesLengths from 110mm to 199mmThread pitches: M15*1.5 or M14*1.5For axle standards of 100 and 110 mm The lever handles come in solid and hollow (a bottle opener version is in development, shown below), with the hollow one weighing just 24g. They say the average axle weight is 41g, obviously more for longer axle widths. These levers can be used on most any tooled thru axle, but their axle is designed to capture it so it won’t fall out if you decide to leave it in. Once tightened, you can pull it out and reposition it to the desired angle.center_img The SwitchLever is spec’d on the Mason Revolution 2 road bike that launched earlier this year, and OEM spec seems to be where their interest lies. They’re a manufacturing company based in Taiwan, with no specific product pages on their website, but they’ll make the axle in any custom length and thread pitch. Contact them directly if you’re interested, and we’ll update if they add a consumer-facing read more

Slow Reveal: 2010 Amgen Tour of California Stages Tease Out Starting Tomorrow

first_imgSpecific route details for the 2010 Amgen Tour of California professional cycling race will be revealed beginning tomorrow via individual stage videos, AEG, presenter of the fifth-annual event, announced today. The videos have been created in collaboration between the start and finish cities of each stage (designated at “host cities”), highlighting features of the route for the eight-day event. Two videos will be released per day throughout the week of Feb. 8, and they can be viewed online at the Amgen Tour of California Web site (, as well as the Amgen Tour of California’s Facebook page and on YouTube.Stage-by-stage videos revealing the routes will be released on the following days: Tuesday, Feb. 9 – Stage 1 (Nevada City to Sacramento) and Stage 2 (Davis to Santa Rosa)Wednesday, Feb. 10 – Stage 3 (San Francisco to Santa Cruz) and Stage 4 (San Jose to Modesto)Thursday, Feb. 11 – Stage 5 (Visalia to Bakersfield) and Stage 6 (Pasadena to Big Bear Lake)Friday, Feb. 12 – Stage 7 (Los Angeles individual time trial) and Stage 8 (Thousand Oaks/Westlake Village/Agoura Hills)You can check there, of course, or you can just check them out here on Bikerumor with all the other sweet cycling goodness…One of the most anticipated professional cycling races in the world, the 2010 Amgen Tour of California will be staged over eight days and will travel more than 800 miles of California’s scenic roads, highways and coastline drives. Running from May 16 – 23, 2010, the race will visit 16 host cities for official stage starts and finishes, with communities along the route getting the chance to see a lineup of some of the most elite, recognizable athletes and teams in the world. Host cities for the eight stages include: Nevada City (new city for 2010), Sacramento, Davis, Santa Rosa, San Francisco, Santa Cruz, San Jose, Modesto, Visalia, Bakersfield (new city for 2010), Pasadena, Big Bear Lake (new city for 2010), Los Angeles (new city for 2010) and Thousand Oaks/Westlake Village (new city for 2010)/Agoura Hills (new city for 2010), title-sponsor Amgen’s hometown community.“The May timing of the 2010 edition of the Amgen Tour of California is going to allow us to visit some challenging new areas of California that previously were not possible due to the weather,” said Andrew Messick, president of AEG Sports, presenter of the race. “Through these fun and creative videos that the host cities have put together, we are going to be able to showcase the challenge and beauty of our 2010 route.”last_img read more

Time Unveils 2012 (New) Race Bike for Conquering Cobblestone Courses

first_imgThe 2012 Time ____ mashed up front and rear ends from two of their existing bikes to create a carbon fiber race bike aimed at some of the rougher classics.UPDATE: Time just confirmed that the Pavé name is trademarked by Specialized and that this model will get a different name when it goes on sale. Pavé was their internal name for the frame according to our source. New photo coming soon.Keeping it stiff and fast, the front triangle is their RX Instinct (RTM integral -which means Resin Transfer Molding with monoblock construction- with Vectran fibers to damp vibration) with racing oriented geometry. Keeping it from beating your spine to a pulp on the cobble stones and uneven pavement is the wishbone rear triangle of their new VRS Fluidity endurance bike.The frame is made for mechanical shifting only, not electronic. You could run Di2 or EPS, but the wires would have to run externally. Bottom bracket is PressFit30, headtube is tapered. Chainstays are asymmetrical.It’ll be available in March as a frame set in matte carbon/red, which includes the frame, fork, patented headset and tear drop shape seat post. US Retail set at $4,000. They provide build kits if you want to get together a complete bike from them. Time Sport’s website is right here, but you won’t find this model up there as of this post.last_img read more

A Tail of Two Lights pt. 2: Exposure Flare review

first_imgSince Light & Motion’s Vis 180 was released last fall and the subsequent arrival of Exposure’s Flare, I have been swapping between the two lights, which each represent a different take a new breed of self-contained, high-powered, rechargeable bicycle tail lights.  Bright enough to be seen in all conditions (but no, not bright enough to “blind” anyone except those foolish enough to put it against their eye) and convenient to use, mount, and unmount, both lights have proved themselves- though for different riders.  Here’s my take on the Exposure Flare:CNC machined in England and boasting a massive 75 lumen output from either rechargeable or disposable CR123A batteries, Exposure’s Flare is an amazing little package.  With its electronics located in the rotating bezel/switch/diffuser, Exposure have prioritized simplicity and weather resistance in the $70 Flare’s design.  Read on for our impression after spending a spring and fall with the little guy…Using a Seoul P4 LED, Exposure have managed to get 22 hours of flashing light out of a light that’s hardly larger than my thumb.  The light’s bezel, which can be unscrewed for battery replacement or charging, also acts as its diffuser, splitting the output between a strong rearward beam and a 360° halo for side visibility.  Rotating the bezel 45° or so turns it on, 45° back turns it off, and a quick (sub-3 second) on-off-on cycle switches between a solid and pulsing beam.  Happily, the Flare remembers its last setting and fires back up however it was left.  The Exposure snaps securely into a nylon bracket, which is held in turn to the seatpost by a remarkably stretchy silicone strap.  The low profile makes it easy to squeeze the Flare in on smaller frames, too, making it ideal for shorter riders.  When locking a bike, it’s easier to remove the bracket from the bike than the light from its bracket- not a big deal given the easy-to-use strap and small size.Though the silicone band is plenty grippy and holds my 31.6 and 27.2 seatposts equally well, it’s obvious when mounted that the Flare is pointed down, squandering some of its precious output.  Running a zip tie around the seatpost and mounting the light so that it is propped up at the problem helps- but does not correct- the light’s alignment.  If there’s anything that Exposure need to correct, it’s this.  Pointing the light down reduces the light’s effective range and impact, diluting the light’s impressive output somewhat.The diffuser bezel, while a slick design, doesn’t make any distinction between left, right, up, or down.  As a result, a good deal of light is sent skyward or spent illuminating the bike’s drivetrain.  Still, given the 75 lumen that Exposure have to play with, this may well be an appropriate tradeoff for a compact, elegant, and weatherproof package.  On my bike throughout this summer’s violent monsoon season, the Flare has held up great, without any protection in the form of mudguards.  The 4hr run time on flash (on rechargeables- 10hr on disposables) has also allowed me to “fit and forget” the Flare only rarely worrying about recharging.  That two batteries are provided in the rechargeable package means that one charged battery can live in a commuting bag for easy exchange when the time comes- and no down time while a flat battery is recharging.While the light directed rearward looks to be less than that of Light & Motion’s Vis 180, side visibility is arguably better.  In terms of ultimate visibility, I would put the Exposure somewhat behind the Light & Motion- but the Flare is much better for riders who aren’t great about keeping their electronics topped off.  For $70 with a disposable battery or $105 with a charger and two rechargeable batteries, the Flare is ideally suited for riders with long commutes or who can’t be bothered (or tend to forget) to plug their lights in every week.  A bracket redesign would take the Flare to near-perfect and re-balancing the rear/side output balance would make it the light to (USA) (International)last_img read more